INTO THE HEART OF ZANSKAR: A JOURNEY TO PHUGTAL MONASTERY

by Mr. Prithwiraj Pal

Assistant Professor,

HoD, Department of Media Science, TISL

"Phugtal’s art is not decoration—it is devotion written on walls, a language passed down for centuries."

On a cold, clear morning in Zanskar, I watched the first sunlight touch the sharp ridges above Lungnak Valley, turning them gold for a brief, magical moment. Far below, the turquoise Tsarap River carved its way through the gorge. Somewhere along that trail lay Phugtal Monastery—and I could already feel that this journey would stay with me.

 

For most of the trek, the monastery remained hidden. Then suddenly, as I rounded the final bend, it appeared. Clinging to a limestone cliff, it looked almost unreal—like a cluster of white cells grown naturally out of the mountain. At its center was a dark cave, ancient and silent, as if it had been waiting for centuries.

Standing there, I felt how old this place truly is. Long before it became a monastery, the cave had sheltered monks and seekers for over 2,500 years. Later, in the 15th century, Jangsem Sherap Zangpo shaped it into a Buddhist center. But even today, it feels less like something built—and more like something that simply exists.

Inside, time seemed to slow down. The walls carried faded yet beautiful paintings—mandalas, deities, and figures of ancient teachers. Sitting quietly in the prayer hall, I realized these were not just artworks. They were stories, beliefs, and devotion preserved over centuries.

Life here is simple. Around 70 monks live quietly, following a rhythm of prayer and study. There’s a small school and a traditional medicine clinic, serving nearby villages. No noise, no rush—just a steady, peaceful flow of life.

Reaching Phugtal wasn’t easy. The long journey from Spiti Valley to Padum via Shinku-la, and then the final trek, tested both body and patience. But in that silence, walking along the river, I found a strange sense of calm.

I stayed in a basic room, with nothing but the essentials. That night, under a sky full of stars, with the faint sound of the river below, I felt completely disconnected from the world I had left behind.

What stayed with me most was a quiet moment inside the cave—the soft glow of butter lamps, the low hum of chanting, and a stillness I cannot fully describe.

Phugtal is not just a destination. For me, it became a feeling—of calm, of perspective, and of something deeply human that words can barely hold.

"Visiting Phugtal is not just a trek—it is a return to stillness, perspective, and the heart of the mountains."

___________________________________________________________________________________

FAST FACTS

-Location: Lungnak Valley, Zanskar, Ladakh, India

-Altitude: ~3,895 m (~12,780 ft)

-Founded: Early 15th century by Jangsem Sherap Zangpo

-Religion: Gelugpa (Yellow Hat) Tibetan Buddhism

-Monks and Trapas: Around 70 (approx. figures, may vary)

-Access: Road + trek (6–8 km from Purne/Cha)

-Best Time to Visit: End June–September or early October

-Highlights: Cliffside monastery, natural cave, centuries-old frescoes, meditation and scholarly heritage, remote trekking

Photo Courtesy: Prithwiraj Pal